- Bite sized musings on beauty, fashion, design and all things divine.
- Yellow mellow
- Bio trends, eco utility and sustainability will be big for Autumn/Winter 2018-19
- Colour trends for Pre-Fall 2017
- Zaha Hadid designs new Naples high-speed train station
- Oh Mickey: Fashion brands and their Disney designs
- Bello Magazine: Designers are weaving dream dresses for the modern day Princess
- David Mamet talks movies
- 2016 #RomaFF11
- Maria Grazia Chiuri: The what’s what on Dior’s new Artistic Director
- Made In Moscow
- First female mayor of Rome in 3000 years
- Military Mix & Match
- Bello Magazine: Lady in Red
- Theatre exhibition @ the V&A
- Bello Magazine: Bulgari’s Dynasty of Diamonds
- Shoes glorious shoes
- Make up Maximum
- Miles of MAC
- David LaChapelle exhibit in Rome
- Beauty is Duty
- Made In Italy
- Women’s Day 8th March
- BELLISSIMA: MAXXI Museum Rome
- Monica Bellucci, Bond Girl
- Aperitivo inside an ancient Roman stadium
- Oscar winning Italian costumes designs exhibited at Palazzo Braschi, Rome
- Elle Decor design exhibition Rome
- Soul Boys ‘Spandau Ballet’ on Rome’s red carpet @ Rome Film Festival 2014
- Kevin Costner Interview @ Rome Film Festival
- Vogue Fashion’s Night Out Rome 2014
- Momenti Moda: Italian Glamour 1945-2014 at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London
- Meeting Missoni 4 Marie Claire:Design DNA Three woman design an empire
- Madonna mia
- Nemi & it’s Wild Berry
- Friends with Benefits
- Mirror, mirror in my bag
- Vivienne Westwood’s ‘Red Shoes’ starring Lily Cole
- Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore
- March Welcomes Women’s History Month
- Sunday Strolls in London
- Venice Mask Time 2014
- Lovely gifts online @ Victoria & Albert Museum gift shop
- 80s fashion exhibit at the V&A: Club to Catwalk
- Beauty and Bulgari
- Biblical Bling
- The Director Wears Prada
- Lights, Camera, Emotion!
- Winners of the 8th Rome Film Festival
- John Hurt Interview
- Nicola talks to Jonathan Demme at Rome’s Film Festival
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- © 2017 Nicola Ferlei-Brown All Rights Reserved
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Bio materials made from milk and mushrooms and other natural sources are the future of fashion and will be the norm by 2019. Ferragamo recently launched a collection made from Italian patented Orange Fibre which is created using citrus waste, with prints designed by the award winning Mario Trimarchi. The brand describe the exciting development as ‘a new fabric treated like the pages of an imaginary book on the colours of shadow at midday…demonstrating the vivid effects of light and shadow and freehand drawing to suggest clouds in motion and the wind scented with orange blossoms of the Mediterranean.’ Biodegradable is definitely the new chic, looking ‘on trend’ but with less impact on the environment.
A new generation of consumers are more eco conscious, as well as many brands being aware about what they are doing to the planet with their designs and processes. Designer Mara Hoffman, spoke to Vogue this year about her shift to sustainability, beginning with her Spring/Summer 2017 collection, which featured better for the planet textiles such as recycled spandex, tencel, organic linen, and organic Japanese cotton jacquards.
A new brand for eco conscious basics is Iluut, the brainchild of Helinksi born Elina Cerell, Vj Taganahan and Milanese designer Silvia Stella Osella. We love their navy blue shirt dress, which is made of cotton and Tencel, regarded as one of the most sustainable fibre innovations in the fashion industry today! Aside from being a handy autumn to winter number worn with ankle boots or flats, 5 % of this products’ margin will be donated for building the Pencils of Promise school, a trust which trains teachers and funds scholarships.
Mango have launched their first Sustainable collection Mango Committed, which is a line committed to ethically sourced materials, made in Portugal, Morocco and Turkey. The 45 piece sustainable collection is made up of 25 womens and 20 mens garments, made using ethically-sourced fabrics such as organic cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel. This move is part of Mango’s larger Take Action initiative, a plan to encourage a new business model based on sustainability and more environmentally friendly processes.
Watch your step
Ethical shoes are about to put their best foot forward, which makes sense when you think that we produce about 20 billion pairs of them worldwide but only 5 percent get recycled at the end of their lives, which means about 19 billion end up in the landfill.
Micam 2017, the leading international footwear fair, was all about shoes made with non animal materials, vegan sandals and trainers. With Italian brands like SQUARe027, who have proposed a 100% vegan shoe made from vegetable synthetics and a special rubber and cork, this is a new type of Made In Italy, made from Italian nature.
Stella McCartney says Fashion is “Getting Away With Murder” and last year her shoes were launched to coincide with World Oceans Day. In her collaboration with Adidas, she revealed a new version of the Ultra Boost trainer that has features made from plastic recovered from the sea.
McCartney who is known for her ethical approach to fashion design, described sustainability as being “fundamental” to what she does. “I strongly believe in making clothing that is ethically created and built to last, and this is an ideology I channel into every single piece I design,” she said. “For me, preserving and respecting the planet is fundamental to what I do and I always try to make an effort to consider that in my designs.”
Alice: A Modular, Zero-Waste Shoe Grown From Fungus
Belgian designer Kristel Peters began exploring new, low-impact ways of making shoes based using fungus.
Talking to eco friendly website Ecouterre, Peters, a 15-year industry veteran who has worked with the likes of Dries Van Noten and Bottega Veneta said “Most fashion houses tend to focus on formal developments, rather than on process and material innovation, giving sustainable solutions the cold shoulder.”
So, she has created a modular shoe based on sustainable design elements like recyclability and repairability, the use of waste materials like sawdust, and local production. She calls it “Alice.” Peters is also a fan of technologies such as three-dimensional printing, which can eliminate the use of non-recyclable materials such as glues while ensuring a bespoke fit.
The 21st century material balances beauty, utility and sustainability. Expect to see Sughero, a vegetable material, which is easy to clean, waterproof and works well for every season.
Traditional Fusion and eco utility
There will be a focus on hand made and crafts, and anything goes mix and match, as well as traditional materials with modern techniques. A mix of culture and traditions without divisions.
Just like Japanese art of Kintsugi, which takes broken property and creates new designs with the old, thus trends will be following suit for AW 2018-19. Merging traditional, ethnic patterns in a contemporary thread seamlessly tying together cultures and their textiles.
Published @ 5Fashion Forecast May 2017
Here’s a look at the best colour trends for Pre-Fall, the smaller capsule collection in between September and February fashion weeks.
Let’s begin with Red
It’s not just about red. It’s red top to toe.
Chanel, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli
Chanel start as they mean to go on by doing a red jacket, bag and knee high red boots. Three different reds, one look.
Givenchy are seeing red, matching red sunglasses with a red suit. This would not be too much with red lips, is the basic message.
Reds are textured and ruffled by Rachel Zoe, tassled by Stella McCartney and rouched by Monse.
Rachel Zoe, Monse, Stella McCartney
Want to go deeper? Merlot reds and plums are an in between seasons nod towards winter. Versace’s military trench with matching leather bag and boots does the trick, as does this exquisite wine coloured leather dress by Carolina Herrera.
Carolina Herrera, Just Cavalli, Versace
As you can see here, the Philosophy line by Lorenzo Serafini mixes red ribboned shoes with darker red wine pieces and black tights for the vamper autumn evening wear must buys.
Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Ulla Johnson, Dion Lee
Fur, whether it be collars, cuffs or accessories, is also making itself known in almost every colour of the rainbow.
So a good idea for a Pre-Fall outfit, as it looks good against an almost faded tan and warms us up for autumn colours and wilted leaves.
Missoni, Rochas, Issey Miyake
Missoni’s burnt orange jodpers with a black drawstring is a brilliant way to do toned down elegant orange. And, Issey Miyake’s woolen orangey red coat brightens up a tired autumn outfit, ditto Rochas’s beautiful military orange blazer.
Markus Lupfer, Fendi, Preen Line, Creatures of the Wind
Markus Lupfer’s almost luminous bright orange chunky knit jumper screams ‘Aperol Spritz in Sorrento’… in October.
Romantic lady like dresses are worn with furs, seen by Rochas. Their sophisticated floral fabrics look like dressed down Versailles, worn with grey school girl socks and retro red shoes.
Rochas, Gucci, Ulla Johnson
Sheer and chic soft pink is looking so fine, by Red Valentino and over sized floaty pastels by Isola Marras and Alexis Mabille are luxurious.
Red Valentino, I’M Isola Marras, Givenchy
Gucci, Cavalli and Givenchy all team candy pink and bold red together. Cavalli’s pink blazer worn over a sheer black evening dress matched with red boots is the way to do it.
Pucci takes it one step further, working the red shoes and pink dress combo, but adding bright yellow tights to the mix. Making this a Capri sorbet of sorts.
Just Cavalli, Emilio Pucci, Gucci
Pucci’s geometric dress and tawny pink tights will definitely be turning heads and Gucci, not one to shy away from mix and match, is all about a tricolor of pink orange and purple.
Thornton Bregazzi’s long fushcia pink flamboyant dress is made all the more foxy with grungy slashes at the bottom of the dress and black fishnet socks.
Emilio Pucci, Gucci, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
White makes it all alright. Add a romantic cotton ruffle dress to your autumn repertoire, pair it with a black boot, and you are all set.
Co, Marissa Webb, Just Cavalli
Go mellow in yellow. It’s looking good from where we are standing, set against greys and blacks by Fendi.
Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Ulla Johnson
Nudes are happening, as always. Silk nude jumpsuits, lace dresses and over sized nudes are are a hot look for 2017.
Marissa Webb, Stella McCartney, Fendi
Electric blue is in it’s element at the moment. Is there anything better than an understated blue dress with a black belt and bag. Thomas Maier does it to a T with this ensemble.
Tomas Maier, Tome, Emilio Pucci
Have you got the bottle to be bold with green? Pantone have named Greenery Green their colour of the year for 2017. They describe it as a “tangy yellow-green that speaks to our need to explore, experiment and reinvent.”
Amanda Wakeley, Issey Miyake, TSE
Amanda Wakeley dresses it down with casual black trousers, an oversized shirt and baggy green woolen jumper. And, we especially love Issey Miyake’s double green outfit of mix and match olive green with tangy green.
Can’t decide which is your favourite of these ten colours? Doesn’t matter. It’s all about mixing and matching them with an eccentric twist, a bold thread tying the theme together.
Words by Nicola Ferlei-Brown
Published @ 5Fashion Forecast January 2017
Images © zaha hadid architects
2016 was an exciting year for architecture and 2017 looks set to be no different as we anticipate the construction later this year of the long awaited Naples-Afragola train station. A sculptural cobra-like steel structure, which will interlink Naples to Rome.
The London based architect firm of the late Zaha Hadid are hoping that it will be more than just a train station and become a social hub, with piazzas, cafes and boutiques. The project began in 2003, but don’t book your train tickets just yet, because it won’t be open until 2018! The best things come to those who wait.
When the plans were first unveiled in 2003, who would have believed that it would take another 15 years to complete, but development was delayed due to budget concerns. Thankfully, the go ahead has been given after a recent meeting of the RFI (Rete Ferroviaria Italiana) the company who own Italy’s railway network.
The new station will be three kilometers north of the city centre, adding both a contemporary landmark to the ancient monuments of Naples as well as the beginning of a new redevelopment of the area. The project will beautifully form a gateway to Naples as a modern transport interchange that will connect the long awaited TAV high-speed trains.
Design wise, there is a sense of movement with the bridge that extends over the train tracks and its dynamic use of concrete and glass.
From Mickey Mouse to Wonder woman, cartoons have been taking the fashion world by storm for decades.
But, more than ever, designers have gone Disney mad, with kitsch embellished T-shirts, dresses and bags. The 90’s nostalgia of cute teen logos is massive at the mo. Snoopy, Pokemon, Marvel and Mr Men, are also fashion show stars of late.
When Mickey Mouse debuted in 1928, he influenced fashion, interior design and art worlds. For his 88th birthday, Vogue celebrated the designers who had been inspired by the Disney character over the last two decades. Everyone who is anyone, ranging from Damien Hirst and Marc Jacobs, to Givenchy and Dolce and Gabbana, are in the equation.
Five years ago, the artist Damien Hirst was invited by Disney to develop a piece inspired by Mickey Mouse. The result, “Mickey,” which recalled Hirst’s iconic spot paintings, was reproduced into a series of poster-size prints. In early 2014, Christie’s auctioned “Mickey” for just over $1.5 million, donating a portion of the proceeds to Kids Company, an organization that supports inner-city children in the U.K.
Which then led to the T-shirt version of “Mickey” to benefit the charity. The limited-edition tops were made available in black and white and in both adults and children’s sizes.
Marc Jacobs and Damien Hirst for Disney
The Rodnik Band are one of the many designers, who have teamed up with Disney. Their ‘GUESS WHO’ collection features Mickey Mouse as you have never seen him before.
The Rodnik Band
“Mickey Mouse is the ultimate playful, pop culture icon – his silhouette is instantly recognisable – and as an artist I was very excited to creatively engage with his image. I wanted to play with people’s perceptions, by hiding Mickey Mouse behind my pop icons and create a humorous creative dialogue between us, entertaining the viewer and making them think twice. Said THE RODNIK BAND founder Philip Colbert.
Perspex accessories in the form of Mickey’s mouse ears, designed by Mumbai designer Little Shilpa, for her Disney gone Grunge range, are a beautiful way of being a bit more abstract in Disney detail. The cut out tights remind us of the polka dots.
More mainstream teen cartoon fashion trends are marketed towards a younger audience and the designs especially popular in Asian countries. Where manga is the main moda and kitsch is their middle name. The fashion divas in Japan look sassy with their denim crops and animation print tees.
These are some of our favourite cartoon inspired designs:
Wonder Woman body by Urban Outfitters
Moschino Couture Pokemon
We are digging this cotton dress and Mickey jacket by Metersbonwe, China’s leaders in casual wear.
High street mainstream fashion brands such as Zara and Bershka have beautiful designs too.
This trend can be grunged up, or be as pretty and twee as you want.
What is your favorite Disney inspired design?
Published in 5Forecastore Fashion: January 8th 2016
By Nicola Ferlei-Brown
Designers are weaving dream dresses for the modern day Princess
Mirror, mirror on the wall.. Which is the most beautiful season of them all? Why, winter, of course. And, a winters tale just became even better dressed, because designers are taking their muses from fairy tales at the moment.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana didn’t waste any time in dreaming up a divine four day event for their ‘Fabulous Fantasy’ A/W 2016-2017 womenswear fashion show in Naples.
They paraded 99 exquisite Alta Moda outfits, with each model bowing or nodding towards their muse, Sophia Loren, who watched from a red velvet throne. “She’s the inspiration for this whole collection,” says Dolce. “Touch, touch!” he said, showing off the beautiful fabrics with baroque floral blooms. Bustiers dazzled with sparkly gems and there was something a bit Dangerous Liaisons in the mix.
Wowing us with their A/W Ready to Wear collection catwalk design installation, they decorated with a giant book with the words: ‘A Princess was walking in the woods when she met Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana’. There was even a princess carriage, the midnight clock, a moon and models wearing military tailcoat jackets in the style of the toy soldier from The Nutcracker. Dresses with cats and mice were the icing on the cake.
Fendi and the Trevi
Fendi chose Rome, its hometown, to celebrate it’s 90th anniversary and show their spectacular Autumn/Winter 2016 Couture collection, on July 7 2016. The beautiful event took place against the backdrop of the Baroque Trevi Fountain, followed by a dinner at the Terrazza del Pincio in Villa Borghese. Just when you thought Rome couldn’t get any more magnificent, you turn the corner and see the Trevi fountain being used as a catwalk, with models ‘walking on water’, across the glass runway built into the water basin of the fountain.
The design concept behind the show began with an early 20th century edition of East of the Sun, West of the Moon, a Norwegian fairy tale with pictures by the famous children’s book illustrator Kay Nielsen, inspiring Lagerfeld. “This was something from the North, we were making a fur collection, and the pictures were something in between art nouveau and art deco.”
Moved by the fairytale inspired collection, Lagerfeld said “In my wildest imagination, I never thought something like this could exist. To do this on a crystal bridge over the most famous fountain in the world? If that’s not a fairy tale, I don’t know what a fairy tale is.”
The show told the story of a Princess transforming from day to night, the colour palette darkening as she travelled further into the woods. The minute attention to detail was exquisite. Fendi’s extraordinary designs of an insect’s wings illuminated by the Trevi fountains lights, were echoed in a tiny clutch of feathers, and mink petals sewn into the hems of organza dresses.
This is the stuff that dreams are made of.
Fairy Tale Fashion
Fashion and theatre are intertwined. Runway shows are magical, with stories, beautiful dresses and creations, impressive tech and light installations so it makes sense that the world of make believe is merging with world of moda this winter.
Earlier in the year was the “Fairy Tale Fashion” exhibit at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. Inspired by classic stories from Charles Perrault, the Brothers Grimm and Hans Christian Andersen, the installation features over 80 objects that illustrate the characters of 15 different stories through the work of designers such as Alexander McQueen and Marchesa.
‘Children’s Stories’ editorial from Vogue Novias, 2005. Photo © Eugenio Recuenco
What to wear to the winter Ball
There is an 80’s tone, with balloon skirts, bold silhouettes, daring designs and and a dash of shoulder pads. Romance, lace, ruffles, pretty trims and floaty gowns with a lil hint of a glass slipper.
Fendi, Dolce and Gabbana and Giambattista Valli are remaking the high-waisted empire line silhouette for the modern woman.
This is a beautiful white pleated silk mousseline and crepe dress with draped motocross leather sleeves, designed by John Galliano for Maison Margiela.
Both Maison Margiela and Valentino are doing Baroque dramatic drapery fit for a Queen.
Valentino’s collection was both the final showcase for designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli’s nearly three decades of collaboration and a tribute to the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death. Their Little Red Riding Hood cape teamed with black biker boots added an edgy twist to the tale.
What is it about the winter and fairy tales that brings out the magic in design?
Dolce&Gabbana just made every woman’s dream come true. Their words: “Who is the most beautiful? You”. But don’t worry about the clock striking midnight and this beautiful moda disappearing. The mega trend will be with us for a while, because Autumn/Winter 2017/18 will be all about the Queen of the night with a dark twist.”
Published in Bello Magazine September 2016 Issue #133
David Mamet, the Pulitzer Prize winning Playwright, Screenwriter and Director, known for works such as ‘American Buffalo’, ‘Glengarry Glen Ross’, ‘The Untouchables’ and ‘Phil Spector’, talked about his favorite movie moments at the Rome Film Festival’s, Movie Talks.
Wearing a Borsellino hat as a tribute to Al Capone, he said:
“In Chicago, we like our gangsters, they are like legends.”
It was a treat for Rome to welcome David, because he doesn’t do that many public appearances.
“I’m not stand offish. I’m inaccessible.”
A man of many words, this is what he had to say:
On the movie business
“I’ve directed 8 -10 movies, written 25-30 scripts, as well as 25-30 scripts for directors that have never been used, but that’s making movies, unbearable trauma and a lot of fun. I’m fortunate that i’m of that era when you would cut the film reel and edit it, and stick it together to get the final cut, while drinking coffee and smoking cigarettes. But times change.”
The Dramatist by Aristotle.
“There’s only one good book written about dramatists.”
On writing dialogue and directing
You can tell a story more with pictures than dialogue, so directing is a different challenge. But, I enjoy both.
Do you leave room for improvisations on set?
“Italian cuisine is the best in the world, chefs dedicate their whole life to the beauty of food. Do they prepare a dish then hand it to the waiter and say ‘oh by the way if you want to tweak the dish on the way to the table’. No. Because you made a masterpiece. It must stay that way. So, i’m the same with my writing. I don’t like improvisation.”
On Gene Hackman
“I respect him because he’s extremely difficult to get on with and so am I, if I don’t get my own way on set.”
On Sean Connery
“Sean Connery is one of the nicest men you will ever meet. I was on the phone with him one day and i’d said how much of a fan my sister was of his. And the next thing you know, he said to me ‘Whats your sister’s number?’ With that, he rang her and they talked for 30 minutes. What a great man.”
“Drama is all about lying, with the truth being revealed at the end. I am told that the guilty audience members are the ones who are the most moved. As Shakespeare said, ‘suspicion always haunts the guilty mind’, and ‘the truth will come to light. At the end, the truth will out.’ When I was directing on Broadway, I would watch the faces of the audience, and it turns out to be true.”
“When I was writing The Verdict in 1982, I didn’t want to write a verdict. Because I thought that would be too easy. Everyone would be expecting the verdict. But then Hitchcock when he met me, said ‘David, if ever you make a film about Paris, put the Eiffel Tower in it’. He made a good point.”
Working at a temping agency, 14 hours a day, he wrote a masterpiece.
Talk about art imitating life when it came to Glengarry Glen Ross.
After college, Mamet held a number of unglamorous jobs: he drove a taxi, cleaned offices, and worked at a truck factory. In 1969 he got a job as an office manager at a real estate sales office. The position was the inspiration for Williamson’s job in Glengarry Glen Ross, and the other salesmen Mamet observed in the office, would later serve as the basis for the play’s other characters.
“I was an out of work actor temping at a real estate agency 14 hours a day, and saw the sales floor first hand. I find it a compliment when people come up to me who work in sales and thank me for making such a realistic scene of the telephones and sales floor in what they call ‘the boiler room”.
Mamet returned to Vermont to teach acting at Marlboro College, this direction led him to one of his students, actor William H. Macy, who went on to become Mamet’s frequent collaborator.
Around this time Mamet started writing plays and putting them on with his students, before starting his own theatre company in 1972.
Not having much direction early on in life, he reflects, “I was a no good kid. I didn’t have any talents. I thought i’d end up homeless, dead or in jail.”
But, thankfully his talent for writing was stronger than that thought.
“The way to write a play, is to write a lot of plays. You gotta write a lot if you want to be good. The secret is to never stop.”
And, boy are we glad that he didn’t!
Photos ©Rome Film Fest
Maria Grazia Chiuri became the first woman to fill the shoes of Christian Dior’s Artistic Director in the brand’s 70 year history. Which means breaking up one of the industry’s most formidable design duos for almost 30 years. Maria has worked alongside fellow Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino since 1999, where they became co-creative directors in 2008. The pair started out in the accessories department at Fendi together in 1989 after attending the Istituto Europeo di Design in Rome. This means that Dior will be her first ever solo gig.
Becoming the first woman to lead the brand is probably one of the most influential positions in fashion and what better woman to do it, having been credited with breathing new life into Valentino as a modern couture house and quadrupling their sales. The scale of operations at Dior is mega and Maria will be a dab hand at doing the six womenswear collections that the brand produces each year.
Maria’s best moments
Beautiful embroidered dresses are her trademark. The daughter of a dressmaker, and with a background in couture, she’ll have no trouble delivering dream dresses for Dior.
Valentino Fall 2016 – ready to wear
Red carpet dream dresses
Maria’s work at Valentino made the brand a favourite of Keira Knightley, Katy Perry, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kirsten Dunst. Dior, meanwhile, is known for dressing Marion Cotillard and Emma Watson amongst many, so they will be in good hands when it comes to wanting their next dress.
The Met Gala 2015
Photo: Getty Images
At Valentino, she has collaborated with many artists, which will go down well with Dior who does too, such as their work with British artist Marc Quinn.
Maria asked performance artist Vanessa Beecroft to stage the pre-fall ‘Untitled Rockstud’ collection, with a cast of 25 men and women, included actress Emily Mortimer, as well as models scouted through a street casting. Their ‘human formation’ was staged in April at the New York Academy of Art, and filmed and again in the autumn, at the Palazzo Mignanelli, by the Piazza di Spagna.
She said, “Asking Vanessa to interpret this idea of ours was almost automatic: no one better than her, with an extremely strong and contemporary approach is able to merge, through her art, the concepts of beauty, reality, perfection and uniqueness/diversity. In her performance, different individuals, clothed in ‘uniform’ items, come together in a shared moment that is lived singularly portraying their personal beauty belief.”
The show must go on
Dior has been without a creative director since Raf Simons left in October, citing the pressure of producing multiple collections a year for a brand of Dior’s scale. Maria’s transition from Valentino to Dior is big news for the fashion industry. She will certainly be no stranger to the pressure, having been at Valentino with Pierpaolo Piccioli since 2008. The pair started as accessories designers for the Italian house when Mr. Valentino was still at the top. Starting with eyewear and handbags and eventually taking over the full accessories gamut, the duo developed a parade of must-have items.
Despite a large female client base, the fashion industry is run by men. So this is brilliant news for women, whilst marking the end of an era for Grazia Chiuri and Piccioli, with whom she’s been working since 1989, and the beginning of a new dawn for Dior.
Published July 2016 @ 5 Forecastore Fashion
Photo 2: Mikael Jansson
In Moscow, the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Russia (MBFWR) witnesses more and more designers designing with the Moscow textile industry in mind. Vogue Italia design scout Sara Maino, who discovers talent around the world, was invited to talk at the event and encouraged designers to embrace their culture in their designs.
More than that, modern designers are descendants of the abstract geometry of revolutionary Russian artists like Kazimir Malevich and WassilyKandinsky. Their masterpieces, whether dream like colourful Cubist paintings or out of this world Expressionism, were a metamorphosis from the drab grey concrete of soviet Russia and today’s leading fashion designers continue to be influenced by the mark these painters left on the world.
A Moscow mix and match theme is bestowing the catwalk and has been for a while and have “popular” and folk subjects seen through a “urban” filter, see Coexist Mega trend for next Fall Winter 2017-18 season.
In Moscow, the exhibition ‘The Age of Influence: Contemporary Fashion Inspired by Russian Avant-Garde’ at the Jewish Museum Centre, begins on the June 30th and looks at exactly this topic.
Kandinsky and the catwalk
Kandinsky’s work was considered a bit too individualistic for his day. Which is exactly what we want walking down the catwalk today, in 2016. In 1918, dealing with the cultural politics of Russia, he decided to devote his time to art education, museum reform, and helped form the Institute of Artistic Culture in Moscow. His biomorphic forms are very much ‘of the mo’.
Designers to watch
A designer who embodies this is Anton Belinskiy, who is known for an eclectic mix of fabrics and textures as well as colour-blocking. Born in Kiev, the 2015 LVMH semi finalist’s works are worn by Avant-Garde fashion lovers. Amongst his major sources of inspiration are contemporary street wear and Ukrainian cultural traditions, which he carefully explored throughout his trips to the country’s regions and other places worldwide.
In May, for Mothers day, Vogue discussed the devoted matriarchs of Russia, who made a big effort to dress their children in beautiful clothes. For example, Brooklyn based Moscow textile designer, Olya Thompson, who prefers a more Russian folklore-inspired stylefor her bambini.
Photo: Gueorgui Pinkhassov
Digitally, there is the popular Instagram turned site @DochkiMateri, which translates as “daughters, mothers” and celebrates stylish moms and their children. Miroslava Duma, Perminova, and Thompson have all made appearances. Ekaterina Mukhina, the site’s creator and former fashion director of Russian Vogue, was inspired to start the project by her own experiences growing up in the USSR. “In the Soviet Union, there was nothing, but women made themselves beautiful clothes by hand. They tried to be perfect,” she says. “Every day my grandmother would put a new collar that she made by hand on my school uniform.”
In Britain, Fashion East is a pioneering non-profit initiative established by the Old Truman Brewery in the East End of London, established 16 years ago, to nurture emerging young designers. Some of their designer success stories are menswear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy’s, whose designs are available at Dover Street Market. And, Roksanda Ilincic, as worn by Kate Middleton, for the Queen Elizabeth’s 90th Birthday.
ROKSANDA Prefall16, ROKSANDA AW16
Gosha Rubchinskiy FW15
“The sun melts all of Moscow down to a single spot that, like a mad tuba, starts all of the heart and all of the soul vibrating. But no, this uniformity of red is not the most beautiful hour. It is only the final chord of a symphony that takes every color to the zenith of life that, like the fortissimo of a great orchestra, is both compelled and allowed by Moscow to ring out”.
Published May 2016 at 5Forecastore Fashion
Photo 1 by Alex Finch